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By:

Samujjwala

8 June 2026 at 12:52:24 pm

The Beautiful Chaos of Indian Fashion

India's traditional clothing offers more than heritage—it offers a blueprint for a sustainable and inclusive fashion future. Fashion is a universal medium of human expression, stretching far beyond mere clothing. It is a living intersection of art and culture. For India, a nation with thousands of years of rich textile history, the modern fashion journey has been both profoundly beautiful and chaotic. As a society navigating a post-colonial identity, India holds the ancestral answers to...

The Beautiful Chaos of Indian Fashion

India's traditional clothing offers more than heritage—it offers a blueprint for a sustainable and inclusive fashion future. Fashion is a universal medium of human expression, stretching far beyond mere clothing. It is a living intersection of art and culture. For India, a nation with thousands of years of rich textile history, the modern fashion journey has been both profoundly beautiful and chaotic. As a society navigating a post-colonial identity, India holds the ancestral answers to modern fashion’s greatest crises, inclusivity and sustainability, yet it continuously fights for its own narrative. Colonial Shadows The mindset of modern India remains deeply influenced by Western standards of style. Following centuries of colonial rule, traditional attire was long stereotyped as ceremonial or outdated, forcing indigenous garments into the shadows of everyday life. India boasts an unparalleled geography of textiles, from the regal Pashmina of Kashmir to the intricate Kanjivaram of Tamil Nadu, alongside Banarasi silk, Sambalpuri ikat, and Patola weaves. Despite this vast heritage, these regional masterpieces often remain unseen by the masses. They rarely become the face of mainstream fashion until a red-carpet celebrity showcases them at a global event. This reliance on celebrity endorsement creates an unstable ecosystem. Traditional crafts are often treated as temporary trends rather than permanently valued art forms, leaving artisans vulnerable when the spotlight shifts. Fashion Without Labels Long before the global fashion industry popularised terms like “gender-neutral” or "androgynous", Indian fashion was inherently fluid. Ancient Indian attire relied primarily on unstitched, draped fabrics that defied rigid gender binaries. This fluidity is reflected across India's classical artistic traditions. For generations, legendary Kathak masters, such as Pandit Birju Maharaj, performed in flowing panels of fabric that transcended gender categorisation. Garments like the saree, dhoti, and kurta were originally designed around the human form, prioritising body positivity, individual comfort, and ease of movement. Modern life relies heavily on structured Western clothing, leading many people away from the comfort and inclusivity of traditional draped garments. Sustainable Blueprint The rise of the global fast fashion industry has introduced a rapid, throwaway consumer culture that is neither economically stable nor environmentally safe. Traditional Indian fashion still holds an ancestral blueprint for a zero-waste and circular economy. A traditional saree or veshti requires no cutting or tailoring. Because the fabric remains whole, there is zero textile waste during production. Indian clothing was never disposable. Luxury handloom pieces were passed down as family heirlooms. When worn out, they were systematically repurposed into household quilts (kantha) or even cleaning items such as pochas (cloth mops), cushion covers, or patches for new garments. As the world struggles with the ecological destruction of synthetic microfibres, India’s natural handlooms offer a sustainable alternative. Khadi is more than just hand-spun, handwoven cotton; it is a philosophy of self-reliance and environmental harmony. It naturally breathes, keeping the wearer cool in summer and warm in winter. Utilising organic cotton, natural fibres, and plant-based dyes such as indigo and madder root, traditional Indian textile production leaves a near-zero carbon footprint. By prioritising these indigenous materials, the global fashion industry can sustain both its cultural value and the health of the planet. The modern fashion industry is trapped by rigid standards and fast-fashion habits dictated by the West. Yet, the blueprint to break this cycle has survived centuries of colonial chaos, quietly preserved across India’s history. Traditional Indian attire was never bound by strict gender binaries or size restrictions; it was built for individual comfort and body positivity. By blending these deeply inclusive philosophies with India’s vast world of indigenous fabrics, prints, and zero-waste drapes, we can do more than just celebrate heritage; we can change the future of clothing. Looking inward allows us to turn fashion on its head, proving that style doesn’t have to contribute to global waste. Instead, it can return to what it was always meant to be: a sustainable medium of living art, comfort, and true human expression.

Caste-based Census Sparks Nationwide Debate

Updated: Oct 22, 2024

Caste-based Census

Caste-based identities continue to dominate rural India, directly or indirectly shaping electoral outcomes. Many major elections are influenced by specific caste groups. After the Bihar government released the first phase of its caste-based socio-economic survey, the caste census became a hot topic. The results, backed by evidence, showed improvements in the living standards and social status of marginalised communities, both in cities and villages. With parties like the JDU and NCP backing a caste census, there is growing momentum for the government to conduct one. However, every story has two sides—joy and sorrow. Even Mahatma Gandhi, the Father of the Nation, raised concerns about the caste census.

Rahul Gandhi accused the BJP of being “anti-Bahujan.” The clear meaning is that his father and forefather refused to execute a caste-based census, which might have far-reaching effects and even permanently fracture India’s social fabric. This may be negative for caste-based beneficiaries. The last caste census in India was conducted in 1931 by the British government. Those times were different from the present scenario. The data was made public and became the basis for the Mandal Commission Reports and reservation policies for Other Backward Classes. Rashtriya Swayamsevak Sangh (RSS) has clarified that the caste-based population count data will not be used for core politics. But the agenda for politics is always twisted and expanded.

The Central Government also joined the legal debate by filing an affidavit with the Supreme Court, leaving the matter unresolved. India’s partition, rooted in the divide-and-rule strategy, is frequently cited as a cautionary tale. Including caste in official census data could further deepen social divides. This issue has become a political pressure point, with various states pushing the Centre for action. Although the Constitution uses the term “class” instead of “caste,” the Supreme Court has consistently ruled that caste is a relevant, and at times, sole or dominant criterion for defining a backward class.

After the release of caste-based census data in Bihar, discussions around conducting similar censuses have gained momentum in states like Rajasthan, Chhattisgarh, and Jharkhand. Karnataka, which has already conducted its own caste census, may release its data soon as well.

Notably, all these states are governed by anti-BJP parties. Congress leader Rahul Gandhi also announced that Congress-ruled states have committed to carrying out caste censuses. Meanwhile, the BJP has remained silent on the matter, creating a significant roadblock.

Caste-based censuses focus on proportional representation in areas like jobs and education, with the argument that this will aid in targeted planning for the disadvantaged. However, the situation remains unclear, much like a foggy winter morning. The BJP’s stance on caste-based censuses and reservations seems different, as they fear the caste-based calculations could fragment their traditional Hindu voter base—an underlying concern for the party.

Professor Sanjay Kumar from The Centre for the Study of Developing Societies, says, “Let alone the BJP; no party can openly oppose it; it is not free from danger. BJP gets a large number of votes from the OBC community, their population across the country would be around 52%. Another downside is that the caste-based censuses could disrupt the balance of socio-economic zones. Data theft is a common issue in government systems, and people may feel disconnected from their actual rights.

The moot question is that if the financial status of an ST/SC/OBC or Dalit citizen moves up by a few notches, will his social status change automatically? The lifestyle of any class will only change when the income of a particular class is changed. The actual source of income is employment. The reality is that only metro cities have enough place and space for workers. Aside from the GIDC and IT sectors, less than 30% of industries have their own designated vacancy periods. After a decade, the Jamnagar and Rajkot Corporations have opened their doors to newcomers alongside experienced staff. However, age and caste bias often operate behind the scenes. It’s important to recognise that poverty is also widespread among many upper-caste individuals, and their needs cannot be overlooked. In the overall interests of the nation, terms like SC/ST/OBC, Dalits, etc. must be deleted from the nation’s vocabulary. Every citizen should have only one classification, that of being an ‘Indian’, in the spirit of the constitution.

Last year, when the Bihar government decided to conduct a caste survey in the state, the BJP was also Nitish Kumar’s partner in the state government, and it supported it. Political expert and former professor of Tata Institute of Social Science, Pushpendra Kumar, says, “It is not that the BJP does not talk about caste. It tries to reveal the caste of the Prime Minister as well. For caste politics, the BJP also tried hard to raise the issue of Pasmanda Muslims.”

(The writer is a management professional based in Ahmedabad. Views personal.)

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